Madeira’s New Gelateria is the Real Deal

La grassa is Italian for “the fat one.” It’s also the name of Madeira’s new gelateria—ironic, considering its gelato has two-thirds less fat than ice cream. The moniker pays homage to Bologna, Italy (nicknamed as such for its rich foods), where Jared and Nick Wayne (the brothers behind pizzerias A Tavola and Taglio) and friend and co-owner John Berman learned how to make the slow-churned milky treat.

Photograph by Aaron M. Conway; Food styling by Mary Seguin

Each gelato is bursting with as much flavor on the last bite as the first. Take the stracciatella, a silky-smooth vanilla bean gelato packed with homemade dark chocolate shards. Vegan or lactose intolerant? Dig into one of the four dairy- and egg-free sorbettos. PSA to coffee drinkers: Familiarize yourself with the affogato, a semi-melty cupful of espresso-drenched heaven. (Think root beer float but with espresso.) Select varieties can be found at the pizzerias, including A Tavola next door. And if you’ve already pledged your loyalty to one of Cincinnati’s coveted hometown creameries, don’t fret, Berman says. “It’s a different experience. You can love Graeter’s and you can love La Grassa, too.”

La Grassa, 7014 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 271-9000,

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