Madeira’s New Gelateria is the Real Deal

You need to check out La Grassa.


La grassa is Italian for “the fat one.” It’s also the name of Madeira’s new gelateria—ironic, considering its gelato has two-thirds less fat than ice cream. The moniker pays homage to Bologna, Italy (nicknamed as such for its rich foods), where Jared and Nick Wayne (the brothers behind pizzerias A Tavola and Taglio) and friend and co-owner John Berman learned how to make the slow-churned milky treat.

Photograph by Aaron M. Conway; Food styling by Mary Seguin

Each gelato is bursting with as much flavor on the last bite as the first. Take the stracciatella, a silky-smooth vanilla bean gelato packed with homemade dark chocolate shards. Vegan or lactose intolerant? Dig into one of the four dairy- and egg-free sorbettos. PSA to coffee drinkers: Familiarize yourself with the affogato, a semi-melty cupful of espresso-drenched heaven. (Think root beer float but with espresso.) Select varieties can be found at the pizzerias, including A Tavola next door. And if you’ve already pledged your loyalty to one of Cincinnati’s coveted hometown creameries, don’t fret, Berman says. “It’s a different experience. You can love Graeter’s and you can love La Grassa, too.”

La Grassa, 7014 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 271-9000,

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