Photograph by Catherine Grace
Colette is so upbeat, it’s downright perky. The colorful, eclectic design brings to mind a sunny grandma’s kitchen, or maybe a stylish wine aunt’s domain. Light-hearted pop and jazz—some French, some not—set the rhythm, and dinner at Colette becomes a whirlwind of laughs and rapid-fire service.
Chef Danny Combs’s darling, the “mostly French” eatery fits well in its vibrant neighborhood just across the street from Washington Park. While absolutely qualifying as an elevated dining experience, the restaurant leans away from the formal ambiance traditionally associated with European cuisine in the States. Instead, the space blooms, staying fresh, friendly, and bright.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
One of Colette’s most charming touches is the secondhand china. Repurposing antique serving ware has become a bit of a trend but pulling it off demands a studious eye and an innate understanding of a brand’s minutiae. It works here, on walls and tables alike, and it’s a clever way to keep things relaxed without ever compromising standards.
The poulet frit à la moutarde is enormous and arrives dressed in greens. The roasted beets blend rather than bury the sweet root, and the fish swims onto the menu by seasonal availability. Of course, the proof of good French cuisine is in the baking as much as the cooking, and, happily, this is where sunny Colette shines brightest. Pastry is a serious matter, and it’s the perfect way to bookend a meal.
Start with the pain maison, Colette’s fresh milk brioche. It’s so light and fluffy, it might float away without the weight of the seasonal butter with which it’s served.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
When the sun sets, and your appetite wanes, turn your attention to the choux au craquelin and the mille-feuille. The first is for choux fans who like their cream iced. The second is for anyone and everyone tempted by the sensuous allure of caramelized puff pastry and crème légère. If the choux fits, eat it. If your tastes diverge, Colette won’t leave you in the cold.
1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com
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