Editorial Note: This restaurant is closed.
What: Challah Cuban. roasted pork shoulder + cottage ham + swiss cheese + dill pickle + monkey mustard + grilled challah
Where: Burnell’s 915 Vine St., Downtown
Why: Good Cuban sandwiches (one of the best in the hot ham and cheese genre) are in short supply around Cincinnati, and when they do show up they are often underdressed with inferior meat or overdressed with too much crap wrapped in puffy bread. Chef Nathan Jolley makes a perfect Cuban with the right proportion of warm meat, melted cheese, sliced pickles, and a pop of mustard pressed between the crunch of golden griddled bread. To take the comfort level up a notch, finish with cookies warm from the oven. I suspect Jolley is hiding a grandmother under his apron.