Fine Diving: Rima’s Diner

Leave room for dessert.
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Let it be known that nostalgia is an outdated thing. But we’ll excuse the photos of Elvis, Marilyn, and Bogart that Rima David keeps on her walls because, well, her homemade desserts make me willing to forgive her anything. (I think she makes food too, but you’ll understand my obsession when you see that glowing dessert display in the middle of the restaurant.) And I really can’t name all the desserts because they’re different every day.

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Jeremy Kramer

But every one is a meal in itself. Still, despite this warning, you’re going to order that damn Big D’s Burger, which leaves no room for afters. It’s eight ounces (that’s half a friggin’ pound, people) of grilled Black Angus that will be dripping juiciness into your socks. In truth, the Red Velvet Cake would finish that off nicely—if you have two stomachs. If you get the crispy chicken-fried chicken (doing the breaststroke in the cream gravy) you’re not going to have room for the puckerworthy lemon pie that pairs so well with it, either. A sensible person would eat their carrot cake or coconut cream pie first—then finish it up with a cup of the down-home pinto beans and cornbread or Rima’s summer salad with raspberry-walnut vinaigrette, because that big ol’ omelette stuffed with sautéed veggies or that homestyle meatloaf weighed down by the red gravy precludes anything else. But enough preaching. The truth is I always eat too much at Rima’s and have to get my dessert to-go anyway.

Rima’s Diner, 635 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-7800. Breakfast and lunch seven days, dinner Mon–Sat.

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