PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” pruned weekly by their creator, Urban Blooms.
Equal care and attention goes into the seasonal farm-to-table menu. A collaboration between one of the Cincinnati area’s most beloved breweries (MadTree Brewing) and one of its most venerated chefs (Stephen Williams of Covington’s Bouquet bistro), it’s an uncomplicated affair featuring exceptional-but-approachable dishes. As one might expect in a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and fennel salad stood out as did the dish of roasted carrots served with oil and breadcrumbs.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Like its produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms. A Denver Cut (a lean cut taken from the shoulder) of steak came from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio. Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and Eli Settler (a.k.a. “Eli the Farmer”) all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-in-hand with quality.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
When I made my first two visits to Alcove, I didn’t have brunch. This was a mistake. Brunch is often little more than a fun afterthought to the much more polished dinner menu, but this eatery’s brunch menu proves that Alcove executes well no matter the time of day.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
The loaded potato hash served with chunks of Cincinnati chili–spiced beef, crème fraîche, and shredded cheddar, hits all the right chili parlor notes for a creative and craveable breakfast dish. I think it’s safe to say that Alcove has found its niche.
1410 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 371-5700, madtree.com/locations/alcove-bar-restaurant
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