PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS VON HOLLE
The Turf Club (formerly Terry’s Turf Club) is best known for its highly customizable gourmet burgers, but there’s more to enjoy beneath the rainbow of neon signs.
The TTC Fish Tacorita—tempura-battered fried cod with red cabbage slaw made with key lime, tangerine, kiwi, cilantro, and serrano, all topped with almonds, hazelnuts, pineapple, avocado, tomato, and tomatillo in a flour tortilla—bundles vivid color, texture, and flavor into a burrito-shaped package. The generous serving of flaky white fish makes the core, and the rest of the ingredients build out from there. Layers of crisp slaw, tangy kiwi, savory avocado, and crunchy nuts make the meal feel like a swaddled salad. Pops of sweet pineapple keep things interesting, and the cilantro, tomato, and tomatillo work overtime to harmonize all the moving parts.
To get the most out of the Tacorita’s sweetness, add your favorite salty side. While most diners love the restaurant’s fried corn on the cob and onion rings, we lean toward the duck fat fries. Their delicate, crispy texture contrasts the Tacorita’s meatier bites, scratching an itch the lean fish, fruit, and vegetables can’t. When these two share a plate, they make each other better.
The Turf Club, 4618 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 840-5049, theturfcluboh.com
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