Photograph courtesy Nicola’s
When Cristian Pietoso steps into the former Pigall’s kitchen downtown, he feels something more than nostalgia. “I remember being in this very kitchen about 20 years ago,” says Pietoso. “Watching all these chefs bustling around, being here close to Jean-Robert [de Cavel] and thinking, ‘Wow, I’m next to this big-time chef.’ They had this amazing kitchen, this beautiful chef’s table, and this incredible fine restaurant. And now, over 20 years later, this is going to be our new home.” Cristian’s parents Nicola and Maureen opened the original Nicola’s in 1996 at the corner of Sycamore and East Liberty in a former incline car barn.
Photograph courtesy Nicola’s
“I don’t want this to be just a restaurant,” he adds. “This is going to be a legacy that continues from what my dad started. We’re gearing up to make this as amazing as it can be.” The legacy isn’t just on the Pietoso side. The building itself has a restaurant pedigree. In the mid-1960s, three of the top eight restaurants in America were located in Cincinnati, and Pigall’s was one of them. In 2003, Jean-Robert de Cavel brought the space back to life with his version of Pigall’s. Today, Pietoso ushers in a new era by bringing Nicola’s iconic housemade pasta dishes into a space already rich with history.
For customers, the move feels both exciting and emotional. The warmth and hospitality at Nicola’s has kept people coming back for birthdays, anniversaries, holidays, and countless special occasions. “[I’m] looking forward to seeing the same quality and friendly staff that’s been a part of Nicola’s for 30 years continue in a new environment,” says longtime Nicola’s customer Darrick Beekman. “The authentic Italian food and ambience [is] hard to find elsewhere in the city.” Others echo that sentiment, remembering not only the food but the traditions that make Nicola’s feel like home. “We love the fava beans and pecorino [and] of course the bolognese and gnocchi,” say Kim and Martin Chavez. “Martin recalls Nicola introducing him to his first of many affogatos.”
Photograph courtesy Nicola’s
For Pietoso, those memories are exactly the reason that closing the Pendleton location is bittersweet. “That building was the very first place I ever worked,” he says. “Nearly 30 years later, it’s amazing to think about all the memories made there.” As Nicola’s prepares to open in its new home, Pietoso encourages diners to enjoy the original location while they still can. The new restaurant is slated to open in 2026.
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