Illustration by Johnny Ruzzo
Mike Stankovich, owner of Longfellow in Over-the-Rhine, is a finalist in the “Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service” category at the 2025 James Beard Awards, which take place in Chicago this month. The new award—one of three new beverage-focused categories—recognizes “a service professional who creates and serves cocktails or other offerings such as low- and non-alcoholic beverages” who “has set high standards; demonstrates creativity and consistency in innovation, hospitality; is making efforts to create a sustainable work culture; and has served as an exceptional example or mentor for other beverage professionals.” We recently talked to Stankovich about the nomination, his favorite celebration beverage, and his plans for Chicago (spoiler: Malört is involved).
How did it feel when you received the news you were a finalist?
It felt surprising. It’s the first year they’ve done anything front of house–related so it was really great to be nominated.
What did you do when you found out you were a finalist?
Chatted with my wife about the trip to the ceremony in Chicago. Had to find a pet friendly hotel!
During the call with other nominees in April, you mentioned the distinctions made between front of house and back of house. Can you elaborate on that? How do you think the James Beard Awards’ new categories will help alleviate some of those distinctions?
The new categories could help, but, really, I think alleviating the FOH/BOH divide has to come from employers. The divide has been dwindling over the years anyway.
What’s your favorite drink for celebrations?
I like Manhattans. It’s a drink I like a lot in general. But when someone else makes you a good one, it’s unbeatable, so I guess it’s just special to me.
How did you end up in Cincinnati?
My wife grew up here, so we relocated here about 10 years ago. I’ve lived all over. DC, Boston, NYC. Why not live here? As a transplant, I love Cincinnati.
There were a couple of nominees in the new beverage-focused categories who were musicians in previous lives. Is there something about performing in bars as a musician that makes it easy to transition to a bar owner?
I think a lot of people in the arts have to make a living while honing their skills as an artist. The flexibility of a restaurant schedule can work very well with a performing artist’s schedule. It’s part of why I’ve always been a big advocate of this business [restaurants/hospitality], It allows people options to pursue other interests while making money.
You’re the closest of the finalists in your category to Chicago. Do you have any strong opinions on Malört? Will you encourage your fellow finalists to try it while you’re in town?
I like Malört. I always like to drink it in Chicago, because that’s where you should drink it. It has become available here now and I think it’s a shame. It really was a fun thing to do in Chicago. I will definitely be buying some for whoever has never tried it before!
The annual Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony will take place on Monday, June 16, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.
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