The most recent installation from theme-joint firm Gorilla Cinema, Lonely Pine Steakhouse is Jacob Treviño’s first stab at a Cincinnati eatery. The mid-century vibe, meant to evoke an American-West counter-service steakhouse, is like an AllModern pop-up. But like the flat-screens hidden behind vintage-telly facades, the restaurant’s modern soul lurks behind old-school props.
My wife and I chose the lone high-top table (there’s patio, bar, and table seating, too) and started with cocktails: a Steakhouse Martini and Mid Century Manhattan, both made simply, but well. Bone marrow makes a great starter, with toast, tomato-and-pepper jam, and pickled peppers delivering flavor from different directions. For sides, we chose the roasted wild mushrooms (dry, but flavorful) and the Texas four-bean cassolette, which recalls potluck baked beans in the best way. Steak is the name of the game here, and I ordered the 8-ounce Ohio wagyu petite tender, while my wife opted for the dry-aged bone-in New York strip, both medium rare. Mine arrived closer to medium and hers was pretty rare, but the high quality of the meat trumped temperature quibbles.
We almost didn’t order dessert, but the chess pie convinced us, and the brownie-like crust and pickled-blueberry topping didn’t disappoint. While frequent steak dinners at Lonely Pine would put a strain on the family budget, I’m already considering going back for drinks and dessert.
Lonely Pine Steakhouse, 6085 Montgomery Rd., Pleasant Ridge, (513) 351-1012