Illustration by Jonny Ruzzo
Back in October, Uncle Leo’s celebrated its second anniversary, and we spoke with owner Leroy Ansley about what’s made the bar a hit in Over-the-Rhine, his culinary background, and his switch from restaurant life to bar life.
You’re originally from Kansas, right? How did you end up in Cincinnati?
Absolutely from Kansas City. Bounced around a lot after college cooking in various cities. While cooking, I was also a music instructor for a percussion group called Rhythm X in Dayton, and so I moved out here for that. But I fell in love with Cincinnati and wouldn’t want to call any other place home. Plus, my wife Jamie is from Milford, so we planted roots out there.
What’s made you stay for so long?
Cincinnati is such an incredible city. The restaurant and bar scene is a great tight community where we push each other to be the best version of ourselves. My wife Jamie and I live in Milford, and I love the small river town atmosphere, plus we have some great dive bars around us (Traci’s, Remington Tavern, and Gateway Inn), so that is a massive plus.
You’ve worked in some great kitchens around the city, most notably A Tavola and Senate. Why did you decide to switch to managing a bar?
I have been a chef since I moved to Cincinnati in 2010. Having worked with great operators such as Daniel Wright and the Wayne brothers, it really opened my eyes to wanting to be an owner. I always said I did not want to be a 40-year-old chef working for someone else, so when I had the opportunity from Casey Coston and Chris Reckman to own our own bar with my wife, I had to jump at the chance.
Where did the name “Uncle Leo” come from?
My nieces and nephews couldn’t say “Uncle Leroy” when they were younger so they just said “Uncle Leo.” But we really chose it because it’s a name that makes it seem like it’s been here a lot longer than we actually have been. Plus, we are big fans of Seinfeld and Uncle Leo is such a great character on that show. That’s also why we have Cousin Jeffery as our beer/shot combo.
What’s the one thing that can make or break a great bar experience?
The number one thing about bars is you have to have great employees. We are so fortunate to have a tremendous team at Uncle Leo’s. If you invest in your team, they will have your eyes and ears and really set a great tone in your establishment. We have had the same crew since opening up. It’s my greatest joy in this venture.
What’s the major difference between managing a restaurant kitchen and managing a bar?
There isn’t a massive difference. It’s all about the numbers. Understanding the bottom line and maintaining a solid team is core to being successful in this industry. Being an owner with Jamie is really what makes Leo’s so much fun.
You’re still cooking. How do you decide what goes on the menu? Are you trying to make the food match the vibe of a “dive bar”?
We have a chance to be creative with the food options at Leo’s. A lot of the food is steeped in classic French techniques. On Thursdays when it’s cold out, we do Beef Bourguignon; when it’s warmer, we shuck oysters from Island Creek Oysters. We made caviar and potato espuma, served with Pringles, so we do an upscale dish in a very down-home matter. (Also, an industry secret: we locally harvest our Pringles from the Meijer in Milford.) Do not sleep on our lobster rolls. We do those on Saturdays, and they are really good.
Tell me about your sloppy joes. Some of our staff members frequent Uncle Leo’s quite a bit and they rave about them! What do you think makes them different from other places that serve them? What do you think makes them so popular with your clientele?
Our sloppy joes are just a house favorite. We do a blend of 80/20 beef with chorizo and spicy sausage topped with Manwich and DelGrosso Sloppy Joe Sauce. We couldn’t do Sloppy Sundays without sloppy joes.
And one last question: Dixon Chili or Skyline Chili?
Skyline just because you are always 10 minutes away from one. Just make sure it has the spicy cheese on it.
Uncle Leo’s, 1709 Race St., Over-the-Rhine
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