This sushi craze will end. I mean, there will come a day when we suddenly wake up and each shout “Holy crap, I’ve been eating raw dead sea-things wrapped in stinky seaweed!” But until that day, we have Thai Taste. Let’s forgo the other items and just talk about the sushi. That’s why people come here. This unpretentious little place has a twosome of sushi chefs fixing big long plates of stuffed rolls nonstop. Eel, octopus, tuna, saba: I’m betting if you can find it in an ocean, they’ve put it inside sticky rice. They have more than 50 rolls on the sushi menu, including a half dozen vegetarian options. Thai Taste combines the Japanese sushi tradition of a lot of selection with the American tradition of a lot period. So what about the Thai? That’s just an excuse for a name. In addition to a solid selection of Japanese dishes, you’ll find Chinese, Vietnamese, and Asian curries along with Thai specialties. The pad Thai didn’t wow me, but that’s not why people pack into this place (see big plates of sushi). And unlike the Japanese serving tradition of bowing with respect to the chefs for their beautiful presentation, the plates barely hit the table before the myriad of rolls vanishes. The interior of Thai Taste is not at all trendy, but it’s kind of nice that they don’t try to make it look like the set of The Last Emperor. Expect more bustle than ambiance, and a plate full of tasty rolls that makes you forget it’s just raw dead fish.
5120 Crookshank Rd., Western Hills
Originally published in the January 2012 issue.