More than 800 miles from New Orleans, BrewRiver Creole Kitchen may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. After moving from its East End digs to its current outpost in Linwood and undergoing a rebranding (BrewRiver’s gastropub now lives within Mason’s Sonder Brewing) about a year ago, the menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City.
His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. Tangy green tomato chow-chow relish and pickled ginger cut through the richness on each, respectively. The jambalaya, loaded with Andouille sausage, chicken, okra, tomatoes, and rice, was our favorite, packing all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and BrewRiver’s nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.
BrewRiver Creole Kitchen, 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484