In the current culture of scrupulously curated restaurant experiences, it’s reassuring to know there are still a few spots with pure bloodlines. Maury’s Tiny Cove has filled that niche on the west side since 1949. True, the Rat Pack–era interior got a subtle touch up last fall (fresh paint and carpet), but seasoned regulars won’t feel out of place. The never-ending supply of garlic dill pickles and fluffy yeast bread make a comforting first impression, and the menu is still solidly Midwestern Steakhouse. A classic five-jumbo-shrimp cocktail arrived with extra-peppery cocktail sauce; a textbook beef carpaccio (pictured), drizzled lightly with dijonnaise and a flurry of capers, was served with Parmesan-and-black-pepper flatbread. The signature eight-ounce Bearcat filet shared its plate with a baked potato and a token sprig of parsley. While the steak wasn’t the highest quality cut (and could have benefited from more seasoning), it was cooked to an impeccable medium rare. But the Redskin burger, a thin patty on marble rye toast, garnished with lettuce, tomato, and white onion, was the real stunner. Duck in for the nostalgic experience, but don’t expect throwback prices—this place isn’t an economic time warp.
Maury’s Tiny Cove, 3908 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 662-2683.
Originally published in the May 2014 issue.