I can’t think of another restaurant named after a condiment. There is no restaurant called Ketchup. Mayo has a clinic, but no eatery to its credit. OK, there’s La Salsa. But I maintain that salsa isn’t a condiment. What’s that you say? All right, Dancing Wasabi. Wasabi isn’t a condiment either, smarty pants. You don’t slather wasabi. You “slather” a condiment. And there’s no restaurant called Duck Sauce is there, you I-watch-the-Food-Network-10-hours-a-week-so-I’m-like-a-trained-chef type person. Cripes! Would you drop it? Gravy is a restaurant based on a condiment. And the Golden family, related to the legendary Golden Girls restaurant Goldens of Tennessee, knows gravy. Seven kinds of gravy. From sawmill for your biscuits to brown gravy for your sirloin. This place is about stuff you drown other stuff under. Like chicken and dumplings, meatloaf, ham, and, of course, real swear-on-a-stack-of-bibles mashed potatoes. It’s comfort food that doesn’t get more comfortable, or tasty. You don’t have a bad meal at this place, you just have some sides with whatever is under your gravy, like Fried Stuffin’ or Ady May’s Sweet Potato Casserole. Then there’s the ribs slathered in Ole Ray’s BBQ Sauce. Ole Ray is an internationally known BBQ judge who makes his condiment in Goshen, just down the road. OK, BBQ sauce is another condiment, but it’s not a gravy. Would you just leave it alone?
1513 St. Rt. 28, Loveland
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days
Originally published in the July 2009 issue.