Fine Diving: Boswell’s in Northside


If you like vintage refrigerators, you gotta see the one at Boswell’s. It’s so old it’s made out of wood. This monster was likely built into the walls in 1886 when the place first opened as a grocery store. A sight to behold, it has display windows for bottles and taps for the kegs inside. Despite the fresh coat of paint, everything at Boswell’s has been around for a long time: the brick walls, the ornate wooden bar, even the regulars. They’re still here and happy that original owners Mike and Jan Beck are back to spread their love of the community.

Photograph by Devyn Glista

The food? Well, it’s also from when bars were bars. You can build your own third-pound, ground-chuck burgers and go old-school with the toppings of cheddar, mushrooms, and bacon. Or be a little brave and add egg, olives, turkey, and BBQ sauce. But my recommendation is to go right for the Boursin Burger. The melty, creamy, garlicky spread du fromage seems so at home on their burger you’ll swear it’s why they call fries “French.”

The burger is backed up a powerful sandwich menu including a tuna melt, Reuben, Philly steak, and cod. And they have a hot brown here that doesn’t resemble anything from Kentucky and definitely ain’t a sandwich. It’s served “casserole” style and if you can find the two pieces of toast under the turkey, cheese, tomatoes, bacon, and curry-spiked mornay sauce, you probably win a prize. (I made that last part up. But it never hurts to ask.)

Whatever you get at Boswell’s, make sure it’s with a “beer from the ice box.” They’ll know what you mean.

Boswell’s, 1686 Blue Rock St, Northside, (513) 681-8100, Lunch and dinner seven days.

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