The Best Dishes

The best dishes I ate in 2023.
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The Schnitzel Sandwich at The Lubecker.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX

Last year was incredibly delicious for yours truly. I enjoyed dishes I had always wanted to try but previously had a hard time finding around here (like the Grandma Slice), and I also sampled some entirely new cuisines (like Afghan food). Both are proof that our local cuisine continues to widen and deepen. Novel or not, all of the dishes on this list were unbelievably tasty.


Schnitzel Sandwich at The Lübecker

When crispy, golden-brown schnitzel extends several inches past the toasted pretzel bun, you know you’re in good hands. In this case, those hands belong to Olaf Scheil, who’s on a mission to rescue German food from its bland, starchy stereotypes. Mission accomplished. (Dish pictured above) ♦ Located at Queen City Radio, 222 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 204-9631, thelubecker.com


Bolani at Afghan Grill

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

This is my must-order appetizer every time I go to this delicious Liberty Township eatery. Thin, fried flatbread, folded over leeks, positively begs for a dip in the accompanying green chutney. As the first true Afghan dish I’ve ever tried, it set a high bar. ♦ 7129 Liberty Centre Dr., Liberty Twp., (513) 644-2171


Carnitas Taco at El Barril

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

Come for the beer and TVs at this spacious Mexican sports bar, stay for the perfect carnitas tacos. Crispy (but still foldable) tortillas filled with tender, juicy strips of pork pair perfectly with a cold Modelo. As for toppings, a simple combination of onion, cilantro, and salsa lets the pork shine. ♦ 940 Pavilion St., Mt. Adams, (513) 381-6112, elbarrilmexican.com


Wagyu Meatballs at Jeff Ruby’s

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

Ordering a bowl of meatballs before a Jeff Ruby’s steak might seem like piling on, but it was the right call. Served with a bright red tomato gravy and creamy cheddar grits, this warm dish brings a little Southern comfort to an Italian classic. These are the meatballs you wish your grandma made. ♦ 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com


Grandma Slice at Trophy Pizza

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

Any New York pizza aficionado should be familiar with the “Grandma Slice,” a thin, square-cut slice (with robust tomato sauce on top of the cheese) that comes from Sicily by way of Long Island. This Evendale spot is one of the only local places that serves it, but when it’s this good, I’m OK with that. ♦ 10325 Reading Rd., #102, Evendale, (513) 769-1111, mytrophypizza.com


Fried Catfish at Soul Secrets

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

This soul food spot makes delicious fried catfish, served in two massive filets that you’ll almost certainly need to take home. The filets are hand breaded in a seasoned, house-made coating that flavors the mild, tender fish without overpowering it. While it goes great with tartar sauce, I still swear by yellow mustard. ♦ 1434 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-7685, soulsecretscincy.com


Assorted Oysters at Sen by Kiki

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

This small Findlay Market stall offers a bespoke oyster experience. Make your selection—or better yet, ask the knowledgeable employees for a recommendation—and watch as they shuck and serve your oysters with hot sauce and mignonette. Sen means “fresh” in Japanese, and it doesn’t get much fresher than this. ♦ 1801 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 813-3284


Guiso de Butifarra y Alubias Blancas at Conserva

ILLUSTRATION BY AGATA KRYCH

If you think this Spanish dish of peppery sausage, white beans, garlic, onion, tomato, and flecks of parsley and red pepper is a mouthful to say, you should try eating it. If there were such a thing as Spanish soul food, this hearty, stew-like dish would certainly be it. ♦ 225 Elm St., Ludlow, (859) 261-0680, conservatapasbar.com

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