PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
On my initial visit to Baru, I was a little skeptical. When a place leans this heavily into late night drinking, food is usually an afterthought; it’s an upsell served to dampen the next morning’s hangover or satisfy the cravings that a handful of cocktails can bring. But true to owner Tyler Wogenstahl’s vision, this is a place where the food is equal to the excellent drinks.
Every detail is exquisite, starting with the space. Sleek, yet splashy—complete with undulating lights and giant red tigers that look like some futuristic neon silkscreen—Baru’s atmosphere promises both fun and quality. And that is exactly what Chef Robert Grace’s menu achieves.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Grace, whom Wogenstahl brought up from Nashville, dazzles our dining scene with dishes like the coyly named “Quail Egg,” a sweet, amber yolk that sauces a flying fish roe (tobiko) nigiri in a wonderful sea-meets-sky harmony. Putting quail egg on the menu at an accessible, convivial izakaya might seem like a bold move, but Baru thrives on such boldness. And the warm dish really does go great with a cold Sapporo.
Another sushi dish, gravlax nigiri, perfectly encapsulates what Baru is about. Gravlax—a traditional Nordic preparation of salmon cured in salt, sugar, and dill—sits atop a bed of warm yuzu rice in a fusion of North Atlantic and Pacific. And if such a fusion seems forced, keep in mind that salmon sushi is itself a Norwegian-Japanese fusion. Desperate to unload a glut of salmon in the 1980s, Norwegian fishmongers introduced “salmon sushi” to sushi bars all over Japan. By leaning heavily into Norwegian seasonings and citrusy yuzu, Grace has made this relatively recent fusion somehow more Norwegian and more Japanese.
Baru, which went from conception to opening in just eight months, is willing to embrace bold flavors while still achieving symmetry. If every bar had a food menu this good, I’d go carousing a lot more often. Maybe it’s a good thing that this eatery is unique.
595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com
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