PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown has finally opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. Four years in the making, The Aperture was worth the wait.
No stranger to fine dining, Anthony-Brown previously served as sous chef at Boca, and before that, sous chef at Michelin-starred Rose’s Luxury in Washington, D.C. He brings an eclectic balance to The Aperture’s menu, which draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean. Often, those touches are subtle; cultured butter, which begs to be spread over airy focaccia bread, gets a smoky touch of za’atar seasoning. Lamb shoulder from Kentucky’s Freedom Run Farm gets coated with harissa and served with a crispy Persian rice called tahdig.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Likewise, the sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. Anthony-Brown has been doing different iterations of carrot at his various pre-Aperture pop-ups over the last several years and it’s hard to imagine one more flavorful than this.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
Seasonality plays a big part in everything the restaurant does, especially the desserts. A key lime tart came topped with fresh winter citrus like blood orange as well as grated celery root for added nuttiness. Given its seasonal leanings, and the playful imagination of Anthony-Brown and team, it’s safe to say that The Aperture’s impressive initial menu will be the first of many.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE VIOX
For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like “#lemon” and “I’m Her.” The catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. The photos on the wall were taken by Assistant General Manager Trevor Biggs. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over.
900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com
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