Photograph by Catherine Viox
From the mind of chef Paul Liew, former owner of Straits of Malacca, Sago brings Malaysian cuisine to Mt. Lookout. Liew charmed audiences nationwide on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and the restaurant’s menu bursts with buns, boba drinks, and Hainanese chicken, but don’t overlook the humble noodle. The restaurant offers noodle pairings with several kinds of chicken, pork, and vegetarian specialties, and customers can choose between soup and dry noodles with soy sauce.
The soup noodles with shrimp and pork wontons and BBQ pork are as filling as they are tasty. Tender pork rests on a bed of noodles, sharing its sauce with the heart of the dish. Lightly smoky with just enough sugar for contrast, the BBQ highlights the meal’s other ingredients without overwhelming the mild bitterness of the green onions or the shrimp in the wontons. The broth—subtly sweet and rounded with deep umami notes—elevates a tasty collection of individual flavors into a unified bowl of comfort. Sago’s fried chicken isn’t your average bird. It’s boneless, but it’s miles from a tender. The crispy layers of deep-friend batter crumble in delicate flakes around a chunk of dark and light meat. Garlic sesame or lime basil dipping sauces bring out the flavor and turn a great piece of fried chicken into a novel experience. It’s hard to resist, especially since you can add a piece à la carte to any meal as a side.
Sago, 1004 Delta Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 321-0982
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