Illustration by Jonny Ruzzo
For uGOgelato owner and gelato master Maria Liliana Biondo, perfecting the art of gelato making has been a lifelong apprenticeship. Always creating, tasting, learning, and experimenting, Biondo cuts no corners and pulls no punches—she serves only the best gelato with the freshest ingredients (often imported from Sicily) at her gelateria across the street from Findlay Market. From securing a spot at the Gelato Festival World Masters North America Finals last summer to supplying restaurants and markets with her delicious creations, we spoke with her about her process, her inspirations, and what’s next for uGOgelato as Biondo heads to the Gelato Festival World Masters in Las Vegas from March 24-26.
Why gelato?
Gelato has been a part of my life since I was a child. I grew up immersed in the craft, watching and learning not just the techniques, but also the passion behind it. For us, gelato was never just dessert, it was a way to bring people together and share a piece of our culture.
How did you come up with the name uGOgelato?
Our shop in Miami was also called uGOgelato. Hugo is my husband’s name, so the “uGO” part is after his name, but also because of the meaning of go in English and gelato.
Where do you source your ingredients?
We serve traditional Sicilian gelato, so we import some ingredients from Sicily—our lemons, almonds, and pistachios. However, we also use fruit when it’s in season, like apples and watermelon, or pawpaws from Ohio. We also source from local farms for other fruits and melons when the season is right.
Do you sell your gelato anywhere else?
Other local places who sell or serve our gelato include Dorothy Lane [Market], Pepp & Dolores, VV The Italian Experience, Maverick Chocolate, Mellotone, Birdie’s Coffee Co., Strato, and Mom ’n Em. We also have a gelato cart we can bring to events like weddings or office parties.
Tell us about your trip to the Gelato Festival World Masters North America Finals in Los Angeles.
Our journey began in Washington, D.C., in 2018, where we won a gold medal, followed by Miami [in 2019], where we received a bronze medal in the American finals. Only the first two advanced to Italy that time, and I missed the chance. The second time competing, I went to Chicago in 2022 and qualified, then advanced to the American semi-final in Los Angeles [in 2023], and most recently, the American finals in Los Angeles last summer, where we won a silver medal and qualified to compete in Italy.
Did you have any help at the Masters?
My dear husband came with me. He is truly my right hand and my emotional support in every single decision, my biggest supporter. Even though he’s not involved in the daily operations of the business, he plays an essential role in uGOgelato. He is the one behind our social media and is critical in the best way—pushing me to excel and never settle for less than our best. At the competition, he was there not just helping logistically but also being the best ambassador we could have.
I would have loved to travel with more help, but we are still a very small business and this was a self-financed competition, so having him by my side meant everything. Looking ahead, we would love to partner with a local sponsor to showcase our city’s excellence on the international stage.
Describe the process of developing MandorLand, your award-winning flavor.
When I was experimenting for the competition I tried making MandorLand with regular milk and I didn’t like it because I felt like the milk was covering the delicate flavors of the almond, and then I thought, Let’s make it water-based, and it was a completely different experience—very light, very delicate. And you could taste all the components because it is a very special gelato. It’s a unique experience. MandorLand is so strong, so intense, and so delicate at the same time. It’s a great dinner closer.
What gelato masters do you admire and why?
My father—I truly admire him for everything he does, beyond gelato. He is one of the kindest people I know and an incredible dad.
I must also mention Isidoro Giglio, my mentor [from Marsala, Sicily]. I have had the honor of training with him every year since 2017. What I admire about him, beyond his personal qualities and beautiful family, is his ability to blend traditional techniques with modern innovations.
I also greatly admire Chef Baron Gottsacker, the founder of Baron’s Gelato, a Wisconsin-based wholesale and catering gelato company. What I admire most is his dedication to using quality ingredients and proper techniques to deliver a true artisanal gelato experience, an approach that aligns perfectly with our company’s values. His work proves that it’s possible to do it right while remaining innovative.
Why serve vegan gelato options?
A lot of customers are vegan or gluten-free. Every flavor is gluten-free, and we have plenty of vegan offerings from traditional flavors and seasonal flavors, but we also do vegan pistachio or vegan cheesecake. We focus on real, high-quality ingredients.
What is the most rewarding part of your work?
I have this satisfaction when people try the gelato and people think they’re trying “just vanilla” and they say, “Wow this is the best vanilla I’ve ever tried,” or “This is the best pistachio I’ve ever tried.” Or when I get asked to ship the gelato from here to a family in Los Angeles so they can relive a memory from Sicily. I love the emotional trigger of a happy memory [my gelato invokes].
What are the most popular flavors at your shop?
Pistachio, then lemon, then amarena [a sweet and tart cherry]—everything that people cannot find in the supermarket. We make very traditional Italian gelato, and the people who come here want to try our gelato [specifically]. In simplicity, you can do better. We can use fewer, better ingredients for an easy-to-digest dessert.
How much gelato do you make every week?
At least 300 pounds at minimum. We display 12 flavors at a time, but in pint sales, we have more than 30 options. If you need a certain flavor, you can always ask or it can be ordered.
How do you know when it’s time to phase out a flavor or add a new flavor?
We have some flavors that are seasonal—for example pumpkin or mint. I don’t make anything unless I know it will taste good…I make it right or I don’t make it. Our best sellers go year-round, but most of the time we make a new flavor every week.
What do people get wrong about gelato?
It’s not ice cream, it’s different. The main difference is in gelato, we use milk or water, and ice cream uses heavy cream, that’s why [for some] it’s harder to digest. Gelato is also served at a slightly warmer temperature. I use no artificial colors and way less sugar. There is not a ton of air content, so gelato is very dense and thick, and the portion sizes are smaller because with a little cup of gelato, you’re satisfied.
What’s next for uGO?
To make gelato more accessible to other people. Part of it is educating customers about how good gelato is versus ice cream, then making it available to everyone. My idea is to have gelato at all the small markets near your house. I want [uGO] to be accessible to you.
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