Photograph by Dustin Sparks
Adding to chef Daniel Wright’s collection of OTR eateries, Forty Thieves (housed within the engineered-to-be-divey bar Holiday Spirits) is the straightforward walk-up window version of the complex Mediterranean flavors found at Wright’s Abigail Street. It’s even headed by former sous chef Ethan Greene. Your options here are simple, but not simplistic: Pile falafel, grilled chicken, or beef shawarma over hummus or couscous, or stuff into a halved pita. The heaping veggie toppings will vary slightly depending on your delivery method and protein choice, but generally include a blistered shishito and cherry tomatoes, pickled turnips, mini Persian pickle spears, and grilled caramelized onions, dressed with zhug, a cilantro-based Yemeni hot sauce resembling chimichurri, and cooled down by tzatziki or a smear of hummus. We won’t call it Middle Eastern food inspired by a Chicago (Wright’s hometown) hot dog, but we might be thinking it. And that’s not a bad thing at all.
Forty Thieves, 1538 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 818-9020
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