Photograph by Catherine Grace
Etxe isn’t interested in innovation. Owners Heather Brady and David Matern (who’s also the chef) want to stitch our city a little closer to Spain, building authenticity through human connection. Think of the menu as a stroll through town. Stop for a drink, linger for a bite, and wander toward the large plates at a casual pace, where you can dig into a good conversation. This is the quintessential tapas experience. It’s not just what you eat, but how you eat.
The restaurant’s story begins when a trip to Spain revealed Brady’s and Matern’s love for the local cuisine and its extraordinary wine, inspiring a new goal. The pair decided their experiences were worth sharing, and they had the skills to do it. When they brought their hunt for a residency, as opposed to a pop-up, to Cincinnati, Chef Jordan Anthony-Brown opened The Aperture’s doors. After the original three-month residency ended, Anthony-Brown gave Etxe space to continue blooming while Matern and Brady looked for a place to put down roots (the permanent location is scheduled to open next year in the Woodburn Exchange Apartment Building on William Howard Taft Road). In the meantime, they leaned into setting the right tone.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
You’ll find Etxe’s essence in its gin cart. Tableside gin and tonic service delivers personalized drinks and conversation; it’s a cheerful, scenic route to a special drink. Guests may choose from three gins, three Fever-Tree tonics, and a wealth of garnishes to customize both flavor and flair. Hibiscus petals will turn your drink pink, and star anise shines in concert with botanicals. While there are no wrong choices, the Nordés Gin from Galicia is something special, epitomizing Etxe’s relationships with Spanish providers.
The wine list is a point of pride, particularly for Brady, and it’s worth a visit on its own. During a research trip to Spain this past spring, Matern and Brady developed connections with even more incredible winemakers and vineyards. However, the duo is practically effervescent over Nordés. Etxe will be among the first American restaurants to showcase the premium brand’s nonalcoholic gin, which passed Brady’s discerning palate as an alternative worthy of the darling cart. For those reaching past gin and wine, the Rio de Dos Mundos (Four Roses bourbon, Fino sherry, lemon, Mencía float) is a fun ride. It’s refreshing and light without sacrificing depth of flavor.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
You need to order more than one small plate, but if you’re dining light and you must choose, the pimiento del piquillo relleno has it all. It’s a pepper stuffed with every cheese in the kitchen. The pepper is faintly piquant but not spicy, and the melted cheese sings a harmonious chorale. It all rides in on a toasted baguette, so there’s a satisfying crunch to round things out.
For the anchovy-curious, the gildas pintxos pulls its flavor from guindilla pepper and gordal olives—the fish provides salt more than anything. It’s a single, rewarding bite that highlights one of Etxe’s core principles: building simple, straightforward recipes with incredible ingredients.
The best tapas to share? The albondigas are meatballs born from beef trim and anointed with a dazzling red sauce. They’re an easy crowd pleaser, and while the meat is phenomenal, the sauce will enchant you. It’s a little creamy, very bright, and boasts a symphony of nuanced notes. Another small plate with incredible sauce, the alcachofa a la parrilla (grilled artichoke, crispy jamón, hazelnut, and almond romesco), has a lot happening. Usually, an artichoke is the star of the plate, but the vegetable is made demure by the salty pops of jamón, the vibrant sauce, and the nuts’ sweet, contrasting textures.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
The most interesting “steak” is the Ibérico Pluma, one of the Basque region’s celebratory dishes. The shoulder steak actually comes from a special breed of pig, not a cow, and it’s one of the trickiest items to source on the entire menu. Prepared traditionally with minimal additions—typically olive oil and salt—the meat is left to speak for itself. The light seasoning plays up the flavor, and there’s nothing to get in its way. It’s tender without sacrificing texture, and the limited fat melts into the meat for a succulent experience unlike any pork you’ve tried before. The best side dish for this little piggy is definitely the champiñones a la plancha. The mushrooms add umami, building on the rich meat without overshadowing it, and the generous serving is easy to share.
As the evening winds down, turn your eye to one of the best desserts ever to leave an oven. The Basque cheesecake is a creamier, crustless alternative to those you’ve met stateside. Incredibly silky, the toasty bits lend a subtle hint of caramelized sugar. Rotating, seasonal compotes accompany each slice, and while the cheesecake is amazing solo, it steps up to a new level of complexity with the garnish.
Photograph by Catherine Grace
Etxe is still evolving as it heads toward a permanent home, and that’s a feature, not a bug. Matern and Brady have new wines to discover, fresh cheeses to try, and many hidden gems to uncover. Diners can look forward to curated tastings, special events featuring small winemakers, and a renovated gin cart. It’s the next best thing to a summer abroad.
Etxe, 900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 202-6540
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