Illustration by Tim Alexander
The Ohio River’s Inaugural River Roots Festival will be one of the greatest gatherings not only of riverboats in the 21st century, but also of riverboat captains. Old hands from the Tall Stacks era will join a new generation on the Ohio in October, and they’re preparing now for the voyage to Cincinnati, making needed repairs to their vessels this summer and stockpiling local delicacies to share with guests aboard future dinner cruises.
Although BB Riverboats operates out of Newport, Alan Bernstein has navigated the entire Ohio River, its tributaries, and the full length of the Mississippi River since beginning work as a deckhand on the Delta Queen in 1970. Seeing so much of the country from the wheelhouse, he found, offers a unique perspective. “Paddle wheelers have always intrigued me,” Bernstein says. “I think they’re just different. Everyone wants to go fast, but paddle wheelers do not. They make you relax, enjoy the scenery, and see things that aren’t always mainstream.”
He isn’t the only riverboat captain with a deep appreciation for the sights. “My favorite part of the vessel is the pilot house. [It] has an exceptional view of the river,” says Celebration Belle Captain Scott Schadler.
Schadler balances roles as an owner, operator, and captain. He juggles overseeing essential kitchen duties (like the preparations behind the boat’s famous slow-roasted prime rib), safety precautions, and the practical side of the river. One minute, he’s worried about ice for his guests’ drinks. The next, he’s ensuring they don’t run afoul of drifting debris.
“There are more challenges on the river than the ocean. You run aground a lot easier in the river,” says Three Rivers Queen Captain Eric Sirbaugh.
Rivers have less space than open seas or lakes, exacerbating obstacles like floating logs and small pleasure craft that don’t always realize they’re blocking river traffic. Large ports add more chaos to the mix.
“Running a stern-wheeler is no easy task, but putting it in the New Orleans Harbor, with the amount of commercial traffic and dangerous currents, makes running this style of boat very difficult,” says Natchez Captain Steven Nicoulin. “Paddle wheelers are unique. You can take a seasoned captain from a towboat, and he can be completely lost on a boat like this, but if you know the tricks of the trade, you can do just about anything with them.”
And what a lot of captains like to do is see how fast they can go on these old, slow boats. “What I’m most looking forward to is that boat race,” Sirbaugh says of the River Roots Festival. “We’re like a big, giant family; we talk to each other all the time.”
That big family enjoys a playful rivalry. Sirbaugh anticipates taunting Bernstein with his Steelers decor, and the Belle of Cincinnati has a long-standing score to settle with the Belle of Louisville. But they aren’t the only crews with ambition.
“It is so rare to have a true steamboat race nowadays; it’s going to be a very special feeling,” Nicoulin says. “[The Natchez] is undefeated in steamboat racing since the boat was built in 1975. She has never lost a race. We are very proud of this record and intend to keep it that way.”
The thrills, however, will never replace the heart of riverboat culture. Belle of Louisville Captain Mike Fitzgerald has been part of the Belle’s story for more than half a century and his experience shapes his relationship with the vessel. While he’s just as eager to race as any other captain, his relationship with and respect for the vessel go deeper. “We have this National Landmark and it’s a living museum. We’re curators of that. We take care of this museum, and we bring it to life on a regular basis,” Fitzgerald says.
He has a point. Spectators won’t gather along the banks of the Ohio to see the fastest boats on the water, after all. They’re there for something a step outside of history’s linear flow.
“Steamboats are so rare nowadays; people don’t realize how special they are,” Nicoulin says. “When you ride a steamboat, it’s like going back to a simpler time.”
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