Silverton Donut Shop

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MAR14_Dine_Dive

Photograph by Stacy Newgent

The low-carb diet craze almost killed the Great American Doughnut.

Independent doughnut shops closed and we were left with distant-made, day-old donuts at the gas station or the assembly-line versions perfected by Krispy Kreme. But a few brave places persevered, and today you can still get one of these homemade delicacies at Silverton Donut Shop. The Silverton Donut Shop was the Pleasant Ridge Donut Shop for 22 years. (They switched neighborhoods three years ago.) The new place is spartan, but it preserves the tradition of so many tasty pastries that no one can settle on just one. You will have to buy a dozen to feel fulfilled. Glazed, cake, and klunkers with exceptional icing fill the shelves, but their masterpiece is the Honeymoon. It’s a yeasted doughnut with the hole plugged before they fry it. Then it’s iced and the hole is filled with custard. It seems more like pie than a doughnut. These are available in Bavarian cream and lemon meringue—which is the version I liked best. By keeping the frying in-house, the shop was recently certified Kosher, so now they can serve even more doughnut lovers in the communities nearby. Doughnuts have no history. One creation myth involves a Native American shooting an arrow through the window at young Hanson Gregory (the de facto inventor), and instead putting a hole in the Dutch oliekoek Gregory was making, which fell into the hot fat. Myths are great things to talk about. Especially over a Honeymoon and cup of coffee at Silverton Donut Shop.

7414 Montgomery Rd., Silverton, (513) 793-0567. $10 per dozen. Tues-Thurs 5 am-8 pm, Fri 5 am-4 pm, Sat & Sun 6 am-4 pm.

Originally published in the March 2014 issue.

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