Mazunte Centro Is a New Take on Mazunte Taqueria

The beloved Madisonville taqueria gets a downtown sibling with a distinctly different menu.

Photographs by Dustin Sparks

Mazunte Taqueria made Madisonville an overnight dining destination with an Oaxacan-inspired menu straight from the travel diaries of owner Josh Wamsley. Mazunte Centro is more sequel than second act, with an almost entirely different menu that gives a distinct nod to Mexico City.

Where the Taqueria serves platters of empanadas, quesadillas, tamales, and enchiladas alongside classic tacos, Centro keeps it simple with build-your-own tacos and tostadas. Look for new fillings like cochinita, a rich-but-tangy citrus-roasted pork served with pickled Manzano chiles. Vegetarian options are not a second thought at either location: The exceptional chile relleno (an almost-sweet whole roasted jalapeño stuffed with zingy goat cheese and queso Oaxaca) shares menu space with hongos y betabeles (mushrooms and beets with braised greens), calabaza (roasted zucchini), and huevos verdes (eggs in salsa verde).

But the main event is the tlayuda, a kind of super-nacho on a giant housemade corn tortilla, toasted so its layers become crispy on the edges and tender in the middle. It’s topped with creamy housemade requesón (ricotta cheese), queso Oaxaca, black beans, vegetables, and many salsas. Round out your tlayuda with al pastor, barbacoa, or any one of Centro’s other specialties and definitely grab a fork, as it is part taco, part Mexican pizza, part salad. Finally, the tlayuda serves two and is a dig in, stake-out-your-territory kind of shared dish, so eat it with a loved one or trusted, nonjudgmental friend.

Mazunte Centro, 611 Main St., downtown, (513) 785-0000

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