Better Call Salsa: Bandito Food Park Does Mexican Right


Photograph by Chris Von Holle

Bandito Food Park and Cantina brings the fun of a backyard party to the great indoors. Chill in a private two-seater cubby or challenge your friends to Jenga at a picnic table on the faux-turf lawn. The food is just as exciting as the ambience. Bandito’s tortilla chips and dips are worth the splurge. Tomatoes in the pico de gallo (tomato, jalapeño, onion) taste like they just came off the vine, and each scoop is like a mouthful of summer. The rich, creamy queso is a must-try as well.

Photograph by Chris Von Holle

As good as the sides are, tacos dominate the menu. Whether you want something vegetarian, a lot of well-seasoned pork, or a fish taco worth writing home about, Bandito has you covered with more than a dozen options. The Porkopolis (al pastor, green pepper sauce, cilantro, red onion, radish, pineapple, spicy Moroccan red pepper sauce, and corn tortilla) shines. The meat is soft and savory, but it doesn’t work alone. Who knew radish could add so much to a taco? The crunch blends with the red onion and ties into the cilantro’s herbal notes without undermining the sauces. Just enough heat kicks through the layers to validate buying a drink, but won’t leave you in tears. It will make you wish you ordered a second, though.

Photograph by Chris Von Holle

Miss camping with friends? Gather a few and share the S’mores in a Skillet (milk chocolate, marshmallows, graham crackers). It’s as tasty as the real thing, complete with golden-crisp marshmallows, and nearly as much fun.

Bandito Food Park + Cantina, 3543 Columbia Pkwy., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-0749

Facebook Comments