Five on Vine serves as an extended rebuttal against the tired argument that American food is bland and boring, proving that there can be excitement in comfort. The restaurant—the fifth venture from Anthony Sitek and Haley Nutter-Sitek’s Crown Restaurant Group—achieves such excitement through meticulous attention to detail. The meat is butchered in-house, the bread and pasta are made from scratch, and the bacon is house-cured.
House-butchered beef and house-made pasta come together beautifully in the pappardelle stroganoff, served with chunks of short rib as tender as the noodles themselves. Beef stroganoff was one of my favorite childhood dishes, an almost certain spirit lifter. And Five on Vine’s version brought me back home, grown-up palate in tow.
1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4302, fiveonvine.com
I’m convinced many diners will have a similar experience with at least one of Five on Vine’s dishes. And that’s the point. The Siteks envisioned Five on Vine as a way of reintroducing Cincinnatians to long-beloved dishes, whether that relationship began at a kitchen table or in a restaurant booth. These love letters to classics literally plaster the walls—the restaurant is adorned with local restaurant menus going back to the 1940s and newspapers that date back to the 1880s.
But that doesn’t mean the menu, which Anthony Sitek and Corporate Chef David Bever rework every few months, is limited to the confines of southern Ohio. Thick, cleanly acidic fried green tomatoes make an appearance, as does a bountiful cioppino, a tomato-based seafood stew created by Italian American fishermen in San Francisco. “Gracie’s Meatballs,” named in honor of Sitek’s grandmother, uses her unique blend of raisins and pine nuts.
Service is as warm and comforting as the food. You have Nutter-Sitek, as well as Director of Operations Brenna Alderman and Food and Beverage Director Alex Stevens, to thank for the fascinating display of historic menus. If, decades from now, I see an old Five on Vine menu gracing the walls of some local eatery, I’ll take a moment to look back fondly.
When I made my first visit to Nolia Kitchen last year, I knew it had something special. Now the whole country knows. First, the James Beard Foundation named Nolia a finalist for best new restaurant in the United States, then Esquire included it on its list of the 50 best new restaurants in the country. Not a bad year.
According to Chef/Owner Jeff Harris, diners have responded to the accolades. He’s usually greeted by a line when he opens the doors to his cozy restaurant at the corner of 14th and Clay. Sometimes, a line of newbies—not exactly sure of the unassuming restaurant’s location—will line up on the opposite corner. Nolia’s popularity is literally spilling into the streets.
Luckily, little seems to have changed: Harris still commands the open kitchen with grace and gusto, and Sous Chef Korry Wolfgang still fires out dishes with precision. Such consistency is extremely refreshing, especially given the volatile nature of the restaurant industry.
1405 Clay St., Over-the- Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com
According to Harris—who was born and raised in New Orleans, and taught to cook by his great-grandmother, Jimmie Lou—there is a misconception that Nolia’s menu is limited to Cajun and Creole food. Yes, both cuisines are represented here, and the juicy, fresh-out-of-the bayou crawfish with a simple, tangy remoulade is a wonderful example of the former. But the restaurant’s scope covers all of the diverse cuisines and cultures that comprise the modern South.
That’s why you’ll find West African–influenced dishes like the tender, fatty lamb shank, which gets dressed with walnuts and currants and slathered with a curry emulsion. One of the specials, a dish of twin chutneys (banana and eggplant) served with a fermented cassava dough called banku, is another nod to West African culinary tradition. (Lead Cook Daniel Rhodes came up with the latter dish, based on flavors and techniques he encountered in culinary school.)
Nolia’s menu—in fact, the entire experience—is the result of a team firing on all cylinders. No wonder they’re lining up outside the door.
Atwood Oyster House opened in the former PearlStar space in November 2023, and it seems to have found its footing almost immediately. It certainly helps that the restaurant is helmed by so many accomplished industry veterans: Chef Seth Ridgill cooked at Kiki, Pastry Chef Kayla Hunley came from Al-Posto and Pleasantry, and General Manager Brandon Moore previously worked Boca’s front-of-house operations.
Atwood has done an excellent job of working closely with coastal purveyors to curate a focused but eclectic selection of oysters. At the time of this writing—a month after Atwood’s opening—more than 20 varieties of oyster have passed through Atwood’s doors, each with a unique flavor and finish.
The rest of the menu consists of southern coastal cuisine prepared with rigorous French technique. There’s an emphasis on seasonality: the Winter Salad is a bright medley of arugula, apples, pepitas (hull-less pumpkin seeds that eat like pine nuts) and ricotta. There was no dressing, save a kiss of brown butter vinaigrette, which ended up being all the salad needed.
1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4256, atwoodoysterhouse.com
The wild-caught fish is as fresh and deliberately sourced as the eponymous oysters. A soft, nutty, perfectly blackened grouper perched atop a creamy parsnip purée—the bite of which served as an excellent counterpart to the mild fish. Ridgill’s dexterity with fish should come as no surprise. Before moving to Cincinnati, he spent years working in acclaimed restaurants in the southern seafood capital of Charleston, South Carolina.
Hunley’s imaginative desserts offer the perfect cap to the ambrosial menu. Fig leaf mousse gets coated in a tart cranberry glaze and encircled by kataifi, strands of shredded phyllo. It’s the sort of dessert that could easily tip into “too tart” or “too sweet” territory, but Hunley handles it deftly.
The modern, clean-lined space, adorned with busts and oil paintings (curated with the help of neighborhood artist Alex Frank) matches the elegant food. It’s stately without being stuffy, somehow both timeless and hip. Like everything else at Atwood, it’s the result of a delicate, highly successful balancing act.
Chef Danny Combs made a name for himself at Boca and Sotto before venturing out on his own. At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, he has built a more laid-back home for his focused, pristine cooking.
As one might expect from a Sotto alum, the pasta is sensational. It’s made in-house and finds its way into dishes like the herbed cavatelli, bright green mini shells that soak up the liquid of the accompanying bits of braised lamb neck. And while I didn’t expect to see made-from-scratch pasta on a French menu, I quickly learned that Colette excels at defying expectations.
1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com
While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on Colette’s concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes like Brandade de Morue and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. The former, a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread, was my favorite dish. Served warm and peppered with chives and roe, the dish ate like a creamy bowl of mashed potatoes, with the briny flavors of the sea ladled over them.
While the cavatelli and brandade were studies in richness, Combs can also work wonders with a cleanly acidic dish like the shredded Parisian carrot salad, seasoned with parsley and toasted hazelnut. The dessert menu is not to be missed either, if my creamy, yeasty Mille-Feuille is any indication.
One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. I saw several diners stop in for a quick drink at the large bar near the front of the restaurant. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though I can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.
After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown has finally opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. Four years in the making, The Aperture was worth the wait. No stranger to fine dining, Anthony-Brown previously served as sous chef at Boca, and before that, sous chef at Michelin-starred Rose’s Luxury in Washington, D.C. He brings an eclectic balance to The Aperture’s menu, which draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean. Often, those touches are subtle; cultured butter, which begs to be spread over airy focaccia bread, gets a smoky touch of za’atar seasoning. Lamb shoulder from Kentucky’s Freedom Run Farm gets coated with harissa and served with a crispy Persian rice called tahdig.
900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com
Likewise, the sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. Anthony-Brown has been doing different iterations of carrot at his various pre-Aperture pop-ups over the last several years and it’s hard to imagine one more flavorful than this. Seasonality plays a big part in everything the restaurant does, especially the desserts. A key lime tart came topped with fresh winter citrus like blood orange as well as grated celery root for added nuttiness. Given its seasonal leanings, and the playful imagination of Anthony-Brown and team, it’s safe to say that The Aperture’s impressive initial menu will be the first of many. For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like “#lemon” and “I’m Her.” The catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. The photos on the wall were taken by Assistant General Manager Trevor Biggs. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over.
On my initial visit to Baru, I was a little skeptical. When a place leans this heavily into late night drinking, food is usually an afterthought; it’s an upsell served to dampen the next morning’s hangover or satisfy the cravings that a handful of cocktails can bring. But true to owner Tyler Wogenstahl’s vision, this is a place where the food is equal to the excellent drinks.
Every detail is exquisite, starting with the space. Sleek, yet splashy—complete with undulating lights and giant red tigers that look like some futuristic neon silkscreen—Baru’s atmosphere promises both fun and quality. And that is exactly what Chef Robert Grace’s menu achieves.
Grace, whom Wogenstahl brought up from Nashville, dazzles our dining scene with dishes like the coyly named “Quail Egg,” a sweet, amber yolk that sauces a flying fish roe (tobiko) nigiri in a wonderful sea-meets-sky harmony. Putting quail egg on the menu at an accessible, convivial izakaya might seem like a bold move, but Baru thrives on such boldness. And the warm dish really does go great with a cold Sapporo.
595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com
Another sushi dish, gravlax nigiri, perfectly encapsulates what Baru is about. Gravlax—a traditional Nordic preparation of salmon cured in salt, sugar, and dill—sits atop a bed of warm yuzu rice in a fusion of North Atlantic and Pacific. And if such a fusion seems forced, keep in mind that salmon sushi is itself a Norwegian-Japanese fusion. Desperate to unload a glut of salmon in the 1980s, Norwegian fishmongers introduced “salmon sushi” to sushi bars all over Japan. By leaning heavily into Norwegian seasonings and citrusy yuzu, Grace has made this relatively recent fusion somehow more Norwegian and more Japanese.
Baru, which went from conception to opening in just eight months, is willing to embrace bold flavors while still achieving symmetry. If every bar had a food menu this good, I’d go carousing a lot more often. Maybe it’s a good thing that this eatery is unique.
Around this time last year, Owner Austin Heidt partnered with Giovanni Ranieri to rebrand Dear Restaurant & Butchery, turning it into Al-Posto (which roughly translates to “at the spot”) in the same beautiful former bank on Hyde Park Square. While the Dear menu ran the gamut from refined American comfort food to French brasserie fare to Italian pastas, Al-Posto’s menu is much more focused. Now, the cuisine is decidedly southern Italian, reflecting the region where Ranieri grew up.
Fortunately, the restaurant retains a cut-no-corners attitude. The pasta is made in-house and is generally not to be missed. The supple chew and floury flavor aren’t set adrift in a sea of sauces and seasonings. Simple, focused preparations allow the pasta to shine. This is certainly true for the cacio e pepe, hearty bucatini noodles with enough pepper and pecorino to give them some zing.
2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com
Finding standout seafood here should come as no surprise, given the restaurant’s largely coastal southern Italian provenance. Dishes like the spicy garlic shrimp Diavolo, the buttery branzino with its perfectly crisp skin, and the blackened salmon are on my “Year’s Best Seafood” shortlist.
And equal attention has gone into Al-Posto’s exceptional wine list (Heidt is also the restaurant’s wine director), which is heavy on Italian varietals. The service at Al-Posto is spot on, with servers deftly guiding diners through the menu and accompanying wine list.
One of the themes of this year’s list is exceptional new restaurants replacing beloved old ones (Five on Vine replacing The Mercer, Nolia replacing Please, Colette replacing Zula). And while Dear carved out a name for itself with its in-house butcher and farm-to-table ethos, I know Cincinnati will embrace this spot as well.
Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” pruned weekly by their creator, Urban Blooms.
Equal care and attention goes into the seasonal farm-to-table menu. A collaboration between one of the Cincinnati area’s most beloved breweries (MadTree Brewing) and one of its most venerated chefs (Stephen Williams of Covington’s Bouquet bistro), it’s an uncomplicated affair featuring exceptional-but-approachable dishes. As one might expect in a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and fennel salad stood out as did the dish of roasted carrots served with oil and breadcrumbs.
Like its produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms. A Denver Cut (a lean cut taken from the shoulder) of steak came from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio. Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and Eli Settler (a.k.a. “Eli the Farmer”) all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-in-hand with quality.
When I made my first two visits to Alcove, I didn’t have brunch. This was a mistake. Brunch is often little more than a fun afterthought to the much more polished dinner menu, but this eatery’s brunch menu proves that Alcove executes well no matter the time of day.
The loaded potato hash served with chunks of Cincinnati chili–spiced beef, crème fraîche, and shredded cheddar, hits all the right chili parlor notes for a creative and craveable breakfast dish. I think it’s safe to say that Alcove has found its niche.
Luca Bistro opened in October 2022, but it feels like it has been around for decades. The unabashedly French restaurant, with its French posters, bright red outer paneling, and chalkboard menu proclaiming its specials to passersby, fits into its Mt. Adams environs so perfectly that it’s hard to imagine Hatch Street without it. That, combined with warm service, timeless French fare, and relaxed joie de vivre makes this a true neighborhood establishment. Chef Frederic Maniet grew up in the south of France and has done an excellent job transporting his native cuisine to a quiet corner of Cincinnati. These are the dishes that culinary Francophiles often crave, prepared in a straightforward, time-honored way. Some dishes are more familiar to the American palate, like the peppery steak frites, cooked to order and served with thin, crunchy fries.
943 Hatch St., Mt. Adams, (513) 621-5822, lucabistro.com
As with Colette, some dishes are more familiar in France, though if there is any justice, they will gain serious traction here. One dish I’d certainly love to eat more of is Bouchées à la Reine, a buttery, flaky puff pastry filled with chicken, mushrooms, peas, Gruyère cheese, and béchamel sauce. It’s a dish so warm and comforting it makes chicken pot pie seem aloof by comparison. Luca Bistro is a warm, gentle reminder that French food can be convivial and affordable. Freed from the hushed restraints of haute cuisine, this is the perfect meal for an animated post–art museum conversation. And there is plenty of approachable French wine to be had, as well as an espresso machine for those looking to live the café life. Walking out of Luca Bistro, you can’t help but feel like you’ve just left a homey French café. For a brief second, Mt. Adams feels like Montmartre.
The new eatery atop the Republic Bank Building in Covington has quickly vaulted its way onto the short list of best views in Greater Cincinnati. But it made this list because the food reaches enticing heights as well. The hip-ly minimal menu (many of the dishes have one syllable names like “Duck” or “Fish”) centers around the restaurant’s 88-inch wood-fired grill. Since said grill is a rarity in the region, Executive Chef Eric Polhamus and Chef de Cuisine Craig Lewis (both formerly of Branch) scouted out accommodating restaurants in Columbus and Detroit to see the 2,200-pound grill in action. You can taste the grill’s handiwork on the cauliflower appetizer, which also comes with citrus supremes, fennel pollen (a potent and rather pricey spice), salsa brava (a smoky Mediterranean sauce, not to be confused with the ubiquitous Latin American salsa), feta, and almonds. Usually, when a seemingly simple dish is followed by a laundry list of ingredients, it’s a bad sign, but at Opal, the pantry’s-worth of ingredients are well-balanced and rarely cover up the grilled flavor.
535 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-0629, opalrooftop.com
The duck is also an excellent grilled dish. The kiss of flame locks in the duck’s juices while a medley of wheatberry hominy, preserved cherry, and cane syrup gastrique (a sort of refined sweet-and-sour sauce made from caramelized sugar and vinegar) add the sweetness that one expects to flavor a good game bird. The accompanying Brussels sprouts are soft and tangy, steeped in a red wine sauce. According to Owner Bill Whitlow (who, with his wife Morgan, also owns Rich’s Proper Food & Drink and Hangry Omar’s), Opal’s menu started small as the team figured out which dishes worked best with its signature grill. The selections, like the restaurant, have continued to grow. You can expect tweaks and seasonal changes to a menu this committed to fresh meat and produce. As for the name, I am told that “Opal” was chosen because of the way the precious gemstone captures light to produce an ever-changing view. In this case, it’s a brilliant view, lit by fire.
