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It’s here, it’s hip, it’s…roasted chicken?
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You’d be forgiven a few Seinfeldian Kenny Rogers jokes about this Over-the-Rhine eatery (“It’s the wood that makes it good!”) but you’ll quickly realize that the folks at Revolution Rotisserie are not fooling around. Case in point: A recent Friday lunch rush.

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We arrived at noon on the dot to a full house, and yet we were seated, fed, and cashed out in 45 minutes flat (and our waitress was all smiles, to boot). That kind of cheerful efficiency is a thing of beauty in OTR. And it’s what will keep Revolution on the downtown dining map—that and genuinely good, crazy-cheap chicken. Your best value is buying your bird in bulk from the platter menu: You get a quarter of dark or white meat, plus a sauce (go gravy or go home) and two sides for $13 or less. If you’re among friends, this dish is easily sharable—but maybe don’t split a chicken leg with your boss.

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The tater tots are just like your childhood favorite, but they’re much improved with kicky chipotle ranch dressing. And the creamed corn is 1000% better than you’re thinking it will be: smooth but textured and lightly sweet. If you have kids in your party, they can make an entire meal from the sides menu, starting with the creamy, crunchy mac-and-cheese.

Mac-and-cheese
Mac-and-cheese

Looking for a less homey lunch? Go for a “chita,” or chicken pita. Revolution turns out a surprising number of variations on this theme and they’re all served up in a warm, fluffy pita round. Our favorite is the John Hancock, with chicken, arugula, pepperjack cheese, bacon, celery, ranch, and buffalo sauce: It’s substantial but fresh and an oddly effective hybrid of BLT and Buffalo wings.

The John Hancock "chita"
The John Hancock “chita”

It works, just like Revolution’s business model of serving up fast, affordable, and tasty (and dare I hope, slightly healthier) chicken.

Revolution Rotisserie & Bar, 1106 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-0009, revolutionrotisserie.com

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