When Demetrios IV closed at the corner of Murray and Plainville, neighbors mourned the loss of the longtime Greek diner. But if the steady stream of takeout traffic on a recent Wednesday is any indication, Green Papaya has been embraced by Mariemont residents. Chef/owners (and husband and wife) Sak Kertpet and Ta Panichluechachai excel with nuanced curries full of the freshest vegetables, as well as darn good sushi.
The mango curry is the clear winner—savory yet refreshing, served with large cuts of mango, pineapple, bell pepper, and snow peas; add a variety of higher-end proteins, including duck, salmon, red snapper, shrimp, even Chilean sea bass. We chose shrimp with the green curry, heady with plenty of Thai basil and a mix of green beans, asparagus, broccoli, and zucchini.
Panichluechachai is a trained sushi chef and friend to vegetarians: Her Buddha roll is stuffed with cucumber, avocado, Japanese radish, and pumpkin root, while the Emerald roll includes seaweed salad, cucumber, and asparagus tempura. The nontraditional sashimi platter features an array of salmon, shrimp, crab stick, and tuna and freshly grated wasabi root. Skip the appetizers—the Vietnamese rice paper rolls were 90 percent iceberg lettuce—and order an extra entrée instead.
Green Papaya, 4002 Plainville Rd., Mariemont, (513) 272-8424, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat.