There’s no shortage of local Indian joints featuring creamy curries, but dishes indigenous to Hyderabad, south India’s largely Muslim region, are much harder to come by. Exotically-spiced dishes utilizing halal meats such as lamb, mutton, and goat are all on splendid display at Kadai Indian Grill & Biryani House in West Chester. Think hearty: Gongura Goat features small cuts of bone-in shoulder and leg simmered in a deeply aromatic sauce of cumin, turmeric, cardamom, and fresh sorrel. (Our server demonstrated the traditional marrow sucking technique. It was worth the trouble, the rich marrow made even more extravagant by the warming spices.) The lamb vindaloo—fork-tender cubes of stew meat braised in a red wine vinegar-based sauce, studded with cumin seeds and spicy red chiles—hit 40,000 units on the Scoville heat scale. Dum Ka chicken is a signature Hyderabadi dish; a yogurt marinade laced with turmeric, garam masala, and tomato induces maximum tenderness in the chicken while handfuls of green serrano chiles stoke the fiery heat. Order plenty of textbook-perfect naan; it’ll help put out the fire as you wipe your plate clean.
Kadai Indian Grill & Biryani House 9536 Cincinnati-Columbus Rd., West Chester, (513) 777-9777, kadaicincy.com
Originally published in the April 2014 issue.