When someone floats a wistful “What a shame that Café de Vine is gone…” in my vicinity, I gently inform the well-intentioned that their favorite downtown lunch spot has just moved around the corner. Café de Vine is now on Fourth Street where Paula’s used to be. Which is promptly followed by, “So why Café de Vine if they’re not on Vine? Why aren’t they Café de Fourth?” Who’s on first, what’s on second, and Café de Vine is on Fourth. Get over it already.
The aging stainless steel walls, stools, and wrap-around counters from the old joint are no more, but you can still get a bowl of that satiating loaded potato soup topped with bacon and cheddar on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Or their amazing three cheese grilled cheese sandwich any day of the week. The breakfast burrito, with goetta, fluffy scrambled eggs, and cheddar, topped with salsa and sour cream, is a strong start to any day, but if you need to reboot at noon, check the “Breakfast at Lunch” section of the menu. May I recommend the potato crisp? Hash browns, scrambled eggs, and cheese, plus a couple meats or veggies, fried into a magical mess with a side of toast.
Owners Faye and Steve Creech still marshal forces in the front of house, while Shane Sorrell holds court in the kitchen and twins Lamarco and Lamar Davis cook and dispatch carryout orders, respectively, with efficiency. Whatever the address, it’s business as usual here. And that’s divine.
Café de Vine, 41 E. Fourth St., downtown, (513) 241-4448, cafedevineon4th.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri.