You could say Pendleton is going through a renaissance. Or maybe a boom, perhaps? That’s certainly the sentiment over at Boomtown Biscuits & Whiskey, the Gold Rush–themed, all-day frontier food spot adjacent to other neighborhood newcomers.
They lean in hard on the theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. The dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. Their biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample three of the four gravy styles with Gold Shoes: two biscuits and a gravy flight. The Sawmill variety with sausage bits was the favorite. The biscuits are just how you want ’em: golden, slightly crisp edges with a flaky-fluffy interior. The gravy trio was just begging for a third buttery cloud to complete the sop-up. The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, features fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer, with a super-crunchy, spicy breading. The signature cocktail, the Boomtown Gold Rush—a Bulleit bourbon sour, shaken with fresh lemon juice and herbed honey—was remarkably balanced. No detail spared, the glass rim is garnished with bee pollen granules that bear a striking resemblance to mini gold nuggets. By the end of the meal, I felt a little out of place without my own denim getup.
Boomtown Biscuits & Whiskey, 1201 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 381-2666, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun.