The restaurant in the 21c Hotel keeps its regional and seasonal hearth lit with an ever-changing menu of sensual minimalism. That may be a cast-iron bowl filled with charred shishito peppers one night or a fine chop of roasted cauliflower paired with cracked wheat, red onion, and pomegranate seeds another. One of Chef Michael Paley’s most interesting uses of wood is to smoke fruit—like grapefruit, paired with fennel and seared octopus.
609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com
Originally published in the March 2013 issue.