Editorial Note: This restaurant is closed.
Two questions may occur to you upon your first visit: What the diavolo are lardo and nduja? And should you eat them? To answer the first question, lardo is cured and seasoned fatback, an Italian delicacy. Nduja is a fiery, spreadable Calabrian sausage. Chef Jeremy Luers whips them into glistening meat butter, a combination so sinfully exquisite it feels like a violation to be savoring it. So the answer to the second question is: Yes, absolutely! And then move on to the duck liver pâté, bucatini (hollow spaghetti-like pasta) with guanciale (unsmoked bacon from the pig’s jowl or cheek), cavallo nero (black cabbage) with roasted garlic, and artisan pizzas. There’s no pretending otherwise.
2038 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 834-5773
Originally published in the March 2012 issue.