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Maybe it’s because he is delighted to have a new chef, all of seven months on the team. Maybe it’s because the menu has taken a new farm-to-table direction, a trend the new chef is noted to feverishly support. Or maybe it’s both. Because when we ask our server “What do you recommend?” he unleashes a soliloquy:
New England clam chowder is a dish subjected to abuse. The famous stew (attributed to French-Canadian fisherman before it became an icon of American regional cuisine) is more often than not a glutinous pudding encumbered by potatoes and slight on clams, even in respectable eateries.