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Amanda Boyd Walters
It’s a counterintuitive choice, but go off the reservation and you’ll be rewarded with this chubby roll.
It’s dark and smoky, with chunks of sausage and chicken, thickened with okra, and studded with celery, peppers, and onion. Traditionally, it’s served over rice, but tradition is meant to be toyed with, so get the gumbo fries.