Photograph by Hatsue
The Kentucky kitchen is its own thing. It’s not Southern cooking or northern cooking, but Kentucky cooking. And Y’all Café is ready to set that record straight. If you’re here for breakfast, you don’t even have to look at the menu. Go right for the 2 Biscuits to Paradise. As anybody who’s ever read a Wendell Berry story knows, biscuits are the manna of the Bluegrass. You get two big ol’ buttermilk biscuits. And you can’t tell if they were drowned or crushed under the weight of that thick sausage gravy. There’s an egg, too, but in Kentucky, it’s considered just garnish for the biscuits. The restaurant also has healthy breakfast fare, like homemade granola and even a selection of smoothies. But that’s for the folks you bring along who don’t understand what breakfast really is. In Kentucky, lunch is “dinner” and dinner is “supper,” since the big meal is often at lunchtime. The River Side Hot Brown will hold you beyond supper with smoked turkey and bacon covered in a housemade cheese sauce on sourdough. Add sweet potato fries and people think you’re actually conscientious about your diet. And if you can’t quite navigate all that, the French onion soup and a glass of iced tea will fill you up good. Whatever you get here, it’ll be a meal that’d make Uncle Jesse from Hazard proud.
Y’all Café, 50 E. Rivercenter Blvd., Covington, (859) 292-1699, yallcaferivercenter.com
Photograph by Hatsue
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