Firmly rooted in Eastern origins, the handmade baos (steamed buns) at takeout window Boom Box Buns have a cloud-like softness on the inside and a tender, chewy bite on the outside. Nathan Friday, former Please sous chef, brings high culinary standards and experimentation to his fast-food incubator. Offering three flavors on Friday and Saturday nights only, he uses hearty combinations: shredded chicken and chopped peanuts with spicy gochujang sauce and aromatic cilantro; beef chuck with crispy shallots and an herb mayo, garnished with fresh basil. The tempura fried sweet potato bun, dressed with sriracha and sliced scallions, is a recurring vegetarian option. There’s a reason these things normally sell out by 10 p.m. Line up early to find out why.