The English gabled manor house perched atop Mt. Adams serves from a casual, rustic menu: most of the two-dozen plates are reminiscent of Sunday family suppers, some of the slow-and-low ilk, and a clutch of pampered bar food or twists on nostalgia. The large plates are more honest than exhilarating—hanger steak with potato risotto and chicken confit, beer-battered haddock with citrus herb mayonnaise, and roasted chicken atop red wine risotto—but you should really try a sandwich. A sandwich? Before you prepare to be unimpressed, take note: Foccacia embraces a thin slab of braised pork belly layered with applewood smoked bacon, fontina, pickled red onion, watercress, a schmear of mayo, and a fried egg. It is The One.
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