The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Quarter Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it's served over a splendid corn fondue, alongside shine-free Vidalia onion rings, a couple of wedges of caramelized peach, and a chestnut brown demi-glace. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.
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