Chef Michelle Brown's food is deeply flavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All seven cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that's a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that's a scenario that, thankfully, doesn't get played out in this subdued dining room. Check out Jag's raucous bar scene, where an unusually large number of men are rockin' their mock turtlenecks on the dance floor to a mojo cover band. Par-tay.
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