Chef Stephen Williams's cozy neighborhood bistro has one fork planted firmly in the canon of Kentucky-proud, the other in classic French. With sous chef Bhumin Desai, Williams evokes the commonwealth in such dishes as corn spoonbread partnered with roasted chicken and country ham; sorghum-laced sweet potato flatbread; farm salad with Kentucky sheep's milk cheese, pickled shallots, and cornbread croutons; and smoked buttermilk grits with sausage and fried egg. Even in dishes that depart from Kentucky's drawl, vegetables, legumes, and interesting grains abound (halibut with fennel, edamame, bok choy, and basil cream). These dishes reflect a humble—but rarely modest—cohesion of flavors and textures.
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