Yukio Fukunaga, the owner and head chef, used to prepare his signature sukiyaki in the traditional Japanese fashion: at the customer's table. “The idea is, you eat, and talk, and drink, and it's a long meal,” he says. When Ko-Sho relocated to Northside, Fukunaga took preparation of the dish back into his own hands. The result is fantastic. The tender beef (or chicken), Napa cabbage, green onions, enoki mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and kale, are all served with noodles in a hearty soy-based broth in a single bowl. An empty bowl and three large utensils—a steel strainer, plus one large and one medium spoon—accompany the dish, leaving the customer with at least a shred of control over how it's consumed. The small, square room, with floor-to-ceiling glass facing the street, has a distinctly casual I-could-sit-here-all-night feel.
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