It's a pleasure to pull a stool up to the bar of this hushed, almost somber restaurant and watch sushi master Keiichi Ando carving mellow yellowtail, soft oily salmon, exquisite chu-toro (tuna belly) with as much expertise as a gem cutter. Servers—even the American ones—exhibit the same deference. A bowl of slightly salty, steamed edamame disappears just as a dish of delicate, barely fried tofu squares appears. You could conclude with a bowl of warm rice, a tangle of tempura onion slices, squid, and shrimp on top, but then you'd miss the spectacular brown bread ice cream with chocolate panna cotta.
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