Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service to the, er, cleavage. Black-jacketed waiters with white floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and stacks of king crab legs, or mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional tuna, salmon, or halibut appears, and there's a small but decent assortment of chops—lamb, veal, and pork. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (USDA prime, dry aged on the premises) like they're dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby's Jewel, nearly a pound-and-a-half of bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers.
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