Big Easy chef Anne Kearney returns to her Midwestern roots and settles down with a more casual version of her renowned “Paris-style” bistro dining: French-meets-American regional with an eye toward quality ingredients and detailed preparation. Fresh meats and produce (Kearney uses local farmers as much as possible), silky reductions, and artisanal ingredients appear throughout the Provencal inspired menu—preserved lemon relish and olives with pan-seared lamb loin, a decadent baked “mac-and-cheese” made with port salute that accompanies a thyme-roasted chicken, braised short ribs are infused with a fruity chardonnay instead of the typical earthy rush of burgundy, and accompanied simply by a scoop of celeriac cole slaw. Kearney's food has integrity, and shows that she's the kind of chef who will always land on a star, whether she wants to or not.
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