Japanese-trained chef/co-owner Hideki Harada throws down edamame hummus with bittersweet lotus root chips, sea urchin shooters, and plate after plate of impeccably fresh sashimi with laudable consistency. But it's his basics that are the real knockout. The steamed pork buns are soft and rich with slices of roasted then pan-fried pork belly. The soul-warming bowls of ramen brim with chicken and pork stock, heaps of al dente ramen noodles, yet more pork belly, and bok choy. With inventive-yet-homey Asian cuisine and an über-stylish makeover, Kaze has turned up the volume in OTR without drowning anyone out.
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