Virgils Café

Chef/owner Matt Buschle’s menu winds its way through the greatest hits of American regional and global dishes: Steak frites with curry ketchup and blue cheese compound butter, pan-seared scallops with risotto, and shrimp Creole with cheddar cheese grits and fried shoestring sweet potatoes; sturdy salads (Caesar; hot slaw made with cabbage, romaine, red onion, and bacon) mix with the genteel sort (artichoke, avocado, and shrimp dressed in cilantro citrus vinaigrette). Huevos rancheros with handmade tortillas make an appearance, as do ribbons of garlicky housemade fresh pasta with zucchini, carrots, and onions tossed with wild mushrooms, beurre blanc, and shreds of parmigiano. The pastrami, served on a Reuben with house-made sauerkraut, is worthy of a New York deli. Accompanied by a slice of dreamy coconut cream pie or bourbon chocolate torte, it’s a meal made in heaven.

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