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Jean-Robert de Cavel’s kitchen brigade turns out fiercely personal dishes with an unmistakable sense of place, whether it’s embracing the classic saucy splendor of his French heritage or celebrating a bounty of local produce. The duo of snail and frog legs with Brie, garlic puff pastry, and parsley butter sauce condenses the entire Alsatian province into seven bites, while the lobster vol au vent with its brandy cream sauce and trio of peas, mushrooms, and watercress would be as familiar in a Parisian court of kings as this neighborhood bistro. The staff’s obvious respect for and dedication to de Cavel creates an atmosphere of eager-to-please sincerity that matches his own passion and commitment, and makes everyone feel welcome.