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Owner and chef Domenico Germano prepares the standards of southern and central-southern Italian cooking, using a foundation of recognizable sauces that cling to various pastas, meats, and seafood. Though the printed menu is concise, servers quickly rattle off a half-dozen specials nightly and anything can be custom ordered. Consistently fine choices are the humble veal cutlets with golden breading, basil scented tomato sauce, and aged Parmigiano-Reggiano; little gnocchi in a gossamer cream sauce flecked with peas and prosciutto; and a fetching spaghetti, glossy with olive oil and easily twirled around sundried tomatoes, artichokes, garlic cloves, mushrooms, and onions.